A History of fashion in the 20th century / by Gertrud Lehnert.

Table of contents provided by Syndetics

• Beginnings of Haute Couture
• Clothes and fashion (p. 6)
• Fashion as art? (p. 6)
• Haute couture, pret-a-porter, and ready-made clothes (p. 7)
• The omnipresence of fashion (p. 8)
• Changing shapes (p. 8)
• Fashion and gender (p. 9)
• Charles Frederick Worth and the beginning of haute couture (p. 9)
• Fashion for women and clothes for men (p. 9)
• The hat (p. 10)
• Reform groups (p. 12)
• The fashion department of the Vienna Workshops (p. 13)
• Paul Poiret, artist and reformer (p. 14)
• New shapes, new materials, new colors (p. 14)
• Orientalism in fashion (p. 15)
• Mariano Fortuny (p. 16)
• Fashion lines before the Great War (p. 16)
• Futurism (p. 16)
• Pause for war (p. 17)
• The Roaring Twenties
• Postwar Europe (p. 18)
• Fashion and the modern arts (p. 20)
• New self-confidence, new fashion (p. 20)
• Fashion for all (p. 21)
• An all too manly femininity (p. 21)
• Coco Chanel (p. 22)
• Androgyny (p. 24)
• Severe elegance (p. 24)
• Eveningwear (p. 25)
• Accessories (p. 26)
• Trends in men's fashion (p. 26)
• Dandies and tramps (p. 28)
• New fashion houses (p. 28)
• Once again, Futurism (p. 30)
• Sonia Delaunay (p. 30)
• Russian rational dress (p. 31)
• The Triadic Ballet (p. 31)
• Fashion in Times of Crisis
• Change of scene (p. 32)
• Fashion and the movies (p. 33)
• Changing shapes (p. 34)
• Fashion, design, and lifestyle (p. 35)
• Fashion designers of the 1930s (p. 36)
• Nina Ricci's fashion empire (p. 37)
• Madeleine Vionnet (p. 37)
• Madame Gres (p. 38)
• Coco Chanel (p. 38)
• Fashion and Surrealism: Elsa Schiaparelli (p. 39)
• The international scene (p. 40)
• Wartime improvisation (p. 41)
• The New Look in Full Swing
• Theatre de la mode (p. 42)
• A newcomer creates the New Look (p. 43)
• Everyday fashion (p. 44)
• Men's fashion (p. 45)
• The new masters (p. 46)
• Pierre Balmain (p. 47)
• Jacques Fath (p. 47)
• Hubert de Givenchy (p. 47)
• Christian Dior (p. 48)
• Jacques Griffe (p. 50)
• Jean Desses (p. 50)
• Cristobal Balenciaga (p. 50)
• Trendsetting youth culture (p. 51)
• Barbie (p. 52)
• Jeans and the American lifestyle (p. 53)
• Neo-Edwardian fashion and teddy boys (p. 53)
• Shoes (p. 54)
• Fashion Revolutions
• Youth as social ideal (p. 56)
• Linear esthetics (p. 56)
• Role change (p. 57)
• Hairstyles (p. 57)
• Men's fashion (p. 58)
• The hippie look (p. 59)
• Television and the movies (p. 59)
• Music (p. 60)
• New structures in the fashion industry (p. 61)
• Yves Saint Laurent (p. 62)
• Street fashion (p. 64)
• Carnaby Street and British fashion (p. 64)
• "Swinging London" (p. 65)
• Mary Quant (p. 65)
• Biba (p. 66)
• Laura Ashley (p. 66)
• Fashion and art (p. 67)
• Futuristic fashion (p. 68)
• Pierre Cardin (p. 69)
• The transparent look (p. 69)
• The necktie (p. 70)
• Flower Power
• Politics as lifestyle (p. 72)
• Pure nature - handmade (p. 72)
• Nostalgia and ethnic styles (p. 73)
• Form without norm (p. 73)
• Skirts and dresses (p. 74)
• Blouses and jackets (p. 75)
• Italian fashion designers (p. 76)
• Pants (p. 78)
• Accessories (p. 78)
• Separates (p. 80)
• Haute couture (p. 80)
• Punk (p. 81)
• Models and the catwalk (p. 82)
• Dress for Success
• Postmodernism: a multitude of styles (p. 84)
• New image-setters (p. 85)
• The leisure look (p. 86)
• Dress for success (p. 86)
• Dynasty style (p. 87)
• Fashion from Japan (p. 88)
• The pleasure of self-presentation (p. 90)
• The new outline (p. 91)
• American fashion (p. 91)
• Donna Karan (p. 92)
• Calvin Klein (p. 92)
• Ralph Lauren (p. 92)
• The end of haute couture? (p. 92)
• Christian Lacroix (p. 93)
• Thierry Mugler (p. 93)
• Jean Paul Gaultier (p. 93)
• New classics: Karl Lagerfeld (p. 94)
• Giorgio Armani (p. 94)
• Gianni Versace (p. 95)
• Image and strategy (p. 96)
• Fin De Siecle
• Changing perspectives (p. 98)
• Fashion innovations (p. 98)
• Fashion for different age groups (p. 98)
• Fashion today (p. 99)
• German fashion (p. 100)
• Label as fetish (p. 103)
• Fashionable understatement (p. 103)
• Retro fashion (p. 105)
• Grunge (p. 105)
• Girlies (p. 106)
• Techno (p. 106)
• Haute couture and pret-a-porter (p. 106)
• Glamor (p. 107)
• Vivienne Westwood (p. 108)
• Belgium, newcomer to the fashion scene (p. 110)
• A new generation: the British are coming (p. 111)
• Full circle (p. 111)
• Glossary (p. 112)
• Index of fashion designers (p. 116)
• Acknowledgments (p. 120)